Cruising Antigua April/May 2010

With Manx Mist now fully and safely arrived in Jolly world again, Kerry has time to do some boat cleaning and prep work before new cruising guests, Paul and Brigitte Watkins, arrive.Their first time in Antigua and first exposure to the cruising life, so the plan is to make it easy - spend a few days circling the island, and then end with a few days based in one of Jolly world's villas.
We do the clockwise circuit, stopping first at Jumby Bay - the breeze is a good, stiff easterly, so we have a good sail around the west side of Antigua, past Dickinson Bay, but as we head around towards Prickly pear Island it's bow on to the wind and waves, and time to motor. Jumby is always a lovely anchorage - in the lee of Long Island, and protected by the surrounding reefs its always calm.
After overnighting at Jumby we do a daytrip up to Great Bird Island and enjoy some hiking and snorkeling. Next day we head out through the Horseshoe reef and sail east and south around to Green Island. The wind is fresh, about 15kts, and there is a bit of a sea running, but Paul and Brigitte survive the 5 hr trip and then we're inside the shelter of Green Island, tucked up in the lovely ricketts Harbour anchorage. More sunning, swimming, snorkeling.
(The aerial photo is from the Nonsuch Bay side, with Ricketts tucked in at the top of the picture)

We move on from Green Island to Mamora Bay. In a strong southeasterly, the passage into Mamora can be an interesting one, reef to starboard, rocky headland to port, and surfing in on a big following sea - but this entrance was an easy one - and once inside you're sheltered in the circular anchorage off St James resort.
We chill out on the beach and enjoy a cocktail, and Kerry gets a chance to reconnect with the world via internet.
Next morning we head back  to Jolly, an easy downwind sail past English Harbour, Falmouth, and then a reach along the west coast. It's Friday night and Happy Hour at Angies Foredeck Bar in the centre of Jolly marina.
Paul & Brigitte have completed their sail around the island, and now get to enjoy the comforts of a waterfront villa in Jolly world.
Hil flies in from Canada - time for her to enjoy some sunshine.
We hire a car for a day and enjoy lunch at OJ's and the Fig Tree drive across the island, wander around the scenic Devils Bridge area, wander around Nelsons Dockyard, cocktails and the Sunday evening bash at Shirley Hts, and then supper at Trappas in Falmouth. A great day out and nice to tour Antigua on land as opposed to by water.
Paul and Brigitte get to enjoy a few more days on the island and having enjoyed their time on the boat, they're up for a few more day sails. Then their visit to Antigua is over. They enjoyed it and are planning to return to one of the many excellent resorts that we visited.

Hil and I have just over a week to ourselves Before our next guest,  Alison Young, arrives. The weather is good, so we hop back to Green island for a few days. We get treated to a dolphin show just off the entrance to English Harbour - always special.

With Alison's arrival and decent weather still hanging around we head off to Barbuda. Decide to make a daystop at great Bird Island and an overnight in Jumby Bay, before we hop through the reef and cross to Coco Pt in Barbuda.

We have a smooth crossing, a lovely broad reach and a calm sea. Coco Pt has a few other boats, but the water colour is spectacular, and its very clear so the snorkeling is excellent.
The next day we sail around Palmetto pt and up the leeward coast as far as we can go, and drop anchor off the deserted northern end of Low Bay. Its not so sheltered here, but the beach is marvellous. The Palmetto pt hotel closed down back in 2008. Theres a new hotel, the Lighthouse, which opened up in 2009, but with 10  miles of beach the few boats that come and anchor can all find their own "desert island" spot.

After a couple of days of quiet Barbuda life we head back to Jolly World - still excellent sailing weather and another smooth passage back.

Time to restock and head out the other direction, around the south side, and back up to Green island. Alison likes this spot as much as we do. But the good weather finally comes to an end. Its also the start of Antigua Sailing week and as we head back to Jolly harbour, we motor through the fleet on the 1st day which is the Round the Island race. Kerry's crew is out there somewhere, and he'll join them for the rest of the week, not aboard "Augustine" though - skipper Tony has decided to try his luck in Cruising class in a borrowed Hunter "Aileron".

We park Manx Mist on Keith's wonderful dock in front of his villa, and the ladies get to enjoy a few days of Jolly world, beaches and pool.
Kerry sets off the next morning - a motor boat ride around to Falmouth with Richard White and most of the crew.
"Aileron" does respectably - finishing 2nd in its class and 3rd in overall cruising. Gives the crew 2 trips up to the award stage, and a good excuse to celebrate.


Alison's stay comes to end just after Race week. she's had another good time, and i'm sure she'll be back to cruise with us again.

We spend a week or so on the dock at Keith Jnr's doing some work on the boat and waiting for some more settled weather.
By this time Keith Snr is back and his boat "Blue eyes" is tied up on the dock as well, with "50 ways" between us. It's funny remembering that they were my 2 neighbours on the old D dock in Jolly marina, and here we are together again.

During this week we join the Keith's and a group of friends and take a fast boat ride around to English Harbour, courtesy of Charles. Its a fun ride but we strike out on lunch spots.
Though we do get to see a huge manta ray swimming in English Harbour, and then we motor back, stopping for a swim en route.

Finally the weather looks like it will stay settled for a week, so Hil and I head off cruising - southbound.
A superb reach down to Guadeloupe, and we're lucky again , another school of dolphins. They like our boat speed and decide to join our bow wave for a while. great stuff!
We overnight in Deshaies, and then sail on to Portsmouth, Dominica.
We just chill there for a few days, enjoy catching up with Edison, do some walking and exploring at Fort Shirley, and generally enjoy the laid back and relatively unspoiled life in Dominica.
We also bump into Brian and Pippa on "Miramar", and  a few other cruisiers from Antigua, on the way south for the annual rum cruise.
We join up with them again the next day at Coulibistiere. its the first time we've stopped here - just a few hours sail (or motor) south of Portsmouth. Its a lovely spot, the local dive store/hotel has a few mooring balls to use ($10/nt), but we're just daytripping. We do the short walk to the local rum distillery and really enjoy the trail along the river and through all the mango trees. Fresh fruit hitting you on the head!

Back to Portsmouth and just enjoy two more nights, before a weather check tells us its time to head north and back to Antigua. The sail back to Deshaies goes sort of ok, as we manage to sail in between a series of squalls. But, back to Antigua is stormier and we spend most of the time motoring and are not so fortunate at dodging - the squalls are pretty big though not too savage.
Back to the safety of Jolly world. Kerry has some grief with Customs due to the lack of a separate outbound clearance from Dominica (they thought we were stopping in the more regulation relaxed French islands.)
Now we are down to the last 2 weeks of the cruising season. we squeeze in 1 last trip to Green Island, then its time to work on the boat, prep it for storage, have it lifted, and Manx Mist is tucked away for another hurricane season.