Cruising Antigua April/May 2010

With Manx Mist now fully and safely arrived in Jolly world again, Kerry has time to do some boat cleaning and prep work before new cruising guests, Paul and Brigitte Watkins, arrive.Their first time in Antigua and first exposure to the cruising life, so the plan is to make it easy - spend a few days circling the island, and then end with a few days based in one of Jolly world's villas.
We do the clockwise circuit, stopping first at Jumby Bay - the breeze is a good, stiff easterly, so we have a good sail around the west side of Antigua, past Dickinson Bay, but as we head around towards Prickly pear Island it's bow on to the wind and waves, and time to motor. Jumby is always a lovely anchorage - in the lee of Long Island, and protected by the surrounding reefs its always calm.
After overnighting at Jumby we do a daytrip up to Great Bird Island and enjoy some hiking and snorkeling. Next day we head out through the Horseshoe reef and sail east and south around to Green Island. The wind is fresh, about 15kts, and there is a bit of a sea running, but Paul and Brigitte survive the 5 hr trip and then we're inside the shelter of Green Island, tucked up in the lovely ricketts Harbour anchorage. More sunning, swimming, snorkeling.

(The aerial photo is from the Nonsuch Bay side, with Ricketts tucked in at the top of the picture)

We move on from Green Island to Mamora Bay. In a strong southeasterly, the passage into Mamora can be an interesting one, reef to starboard, rocky headland to port, and surfing in on a big following sea - but this entrance was an easy one - and once inside you're sheltered in the circular anchorage off St James resort.
We chill out on the beach and enjoy a cocktail, and Kerry gets a chance to reconnect with the world via internet.
Next morning we head back  to Jolly, an easy downwind sail past English Harbour, Falmouth, and then a reach along the west coast. It's Friday night and Happy Hour at Angies Foredeck Bar in the centre of Jolly marina.
Paul & Brigitte have completed their sail around the island, and now get to enjoy the comforts of a waterfront villa in Jolly world.
Hil flies in from Canada - time for her to enjoy some sunshine.

We hire a car for a day and enjoy lunch at OJ's and the Fig Tree drive across the island, wander around the scenic Devils Bridge area, wander around Nelsons Dockyard, cocktails and the Sunday evening bash at Shirley Hts, and then supper at Trappas in Falmouth. A great day out and nice to tour Antigua on land as opposed to by water.
Paul and Brigitte get to enjoy a few more days on the island and having enjoyed their time on the boat, they're up for a few more day sails. Then their visit to Antigua is over. They enjoyed it and are planning to return to one of the many excellent resorts that we visited.

Hil and I have just over a week to ourselves Before our next guest,  Alison Young, arrives. The weather is good, so we hop back to Green island for a few days. We get treated to a dolphin show just off the entrance to English Harbour - always special.

With Alison's arrival and decent weather still hanging around we head off to Barbuda. Decide to make a daystop at great Bird Island and an overnight in Jumby Bay, before we hop through the reef and cross to Coco Pt in Barbuda.

We have a smooth crossing, a lovely broad reach and a calm sea. Coco Pt has a few other boats, but the water colour is spectacular, and its very clear so the snorkeling is excellent.

The next day we sail around Palmetto pt and up the leeward coast as far as we can go, and drop anchor off the deserted northern end of Low Bay. Its not so sheltered here, but the beach is marvellous. The Palmetto pt hotel closed down back in 2008. Theres a new hotel, the Lighthouse, which opened up in 2009, but with 10  miles of beach the few boats that come and anchor can all find their own "desert island" spot.

After a couple of days of quiet Barbuda life we head back to Jolly World - still excellent sailing weather and another smooth passage back.

Time to restock and head out the other direction, around the south side, and back up to Green island. Alison likes this spot as much as we do. But the good weather finally comes to an end. Its also the start of Antigua Sailing week and as we head back to Jolly harbour, we motor through the fleet on the 1st day which is the Round the Island race. Kerry's crew is out there somewhere, and he'll join them for the rest of the week, not aboard "Augustine" though - skipper Tony has decided to try his luck in Cruising class in a borrowed Hunter "Aileron".

We park Manx Mist on Keith's wonderful dock in front of his villa, and the ladies get to enjoy a few days of Jolly world, beaches and pool.
Kerry sets off the next morning - a motor boat ride around to Falmouth with Richard White and most of the crew.

"Aileron" does respectably - finishing 2nd in its class and 3rd in overall cruising. Gives the crew 2 trips up to the award stage, and a good excuse to celebrate.


Alison's stay comes to end just after Race week. she's had another good time, and i'm sure she'll be back to cruise with us again.

We spend a week or so on the dock at Keith Jnr's doing some work on the boat and waiting for some more settled weather.
By this time Keith Snr is back and his boat "Blue eyes" is tied up on the dock as well, with "50 ways" between us. It's funny remembering that they were my 2 neighbours on the old D dock in Jolly marina, and here we are together again.

During this week we join the Keith's and a group of friends and take a fast boat ride around to English Harbour, courtesy of Charles. Its a fun ride but we strike out on lunch spots.
Though we do get to see a huge manta ray swimming in English Harbour, and then we motor back, stopping for a swim en route.

Finally the weather looks like it will stay settled for a week, so Hil and I head off cruising - southbound.
A superb reach down to Guadeloupe, and we're lucky again , another school of dolphins. They like our boat speed and decide to join our bow wave for a while. great stuff!
We overnight in Deshaies, and then sail on to Portsmouth, Dominica.
We just chill there for a few days, enjoy catching up with Edison, do some walking and exploring at Fort Shirley, and generally enjoy the laid back and relatively unspoiled life in Dominica.
We also bump into Brian and Pippa on "Miramar", and  a few other cruisiers from Antigua, on the way south for the annual rum cruise.
We join up with them again the next day at Coulibistiere. its the first time we've stopped here - just a few hours sail (or motor) south of Portsmouth. Its a lovely spot, the local dive store/hotel has a few mooring balls to use ($10/nt), but we're just daytripping. We do the short walk to the local rum distillery and really enjoy the trail along the river and through all the mango trees. Fresh fruit hitting you on the head!

Back to Portsmouth and just enjoy two more nights, before a weather check tells us its time to head north and back to Antigua. The sail back to Deshaies goes sort of ok, as we manage to sail in between a series of squalls. But, back to Antigua is stormier and we spend most of the time motoring and are not so fortunate at dodging - the squalls are pretty big though not too savage.
Back to the safety of Jolly world. Kerry has some grief with Customs due to the lack of a separate outbound clearance from Dominica (they thought we were stopping in the more regulation relaxed French islands.)
Now we are down to the last 2 weeks of the cruising season. we squeeze in 1 last trip to Green Island, then its time to work on the boat, prep it for storage, have it lifted, and Manx Mist is tucked away for another hurricane season.

Mar 2010 - Olympics over

The pictures tell the story - Helen and teammate ShelleyAnne win Silver, we have a great time, and great memories.

Kerry doesn't have much time to reflect on it all though - back to the boat a few days after the Closing Ceremonies.
There is work to do before cruising can restart. The raw water feed to the engine is struggling and it all because Capt Kerry was too eager to return to the water in October. The seacock should have been replaced.
But before its time to meet that challenge, its racing time in St Maarten. The Heineken Regatta is about to start, and "Augustine", skipper Tony, and her misfit crew from Antigua are returning to St Maarten to race again. We're in Spinnaker 6 - up against many of the same boats we beat last year, including "Kick em Jenny". But having shredded Tony's best sails last season, we know we're going to struggle unless we get lucky and get the perfect wind to suit the limited sail choice.
Not to be, the first day is light winds, and its the longest race - we struggle in to finish 11th. We come back a bit with stronger winds, and collect a couple of 3rds in Races 2 and 5, but its not enough and we end up 5th overall.
Still, it's always a good time. After a bit of r&r and shopping, the race boats all start to head off. And I have time to fix "Manx Mist".
I'm convinced my problem is a bust seacock - it won't either open or close fully - and the engine is getting less and less sea-water for cooling. I decide to take a shot at fixing it, without lifting the boat out (which would be the smart and safe thing to do). The plan is to dive below and plug the intake with plasticbags, then remove the seacock and replace - hoping as I do this that I don't crack the thru-hull seal. The plan works, as does the new seacock, and the engine is getting more water than I've ever seen - and running beautifully. Whoopee! I'm ready to go cruising.

First visitor is cousin Bill  from Canada - keen sailor and great company. We actually start off his cruising with a car rental, and tour the island, including a visit to Marigot and Grand Case.
Then we head out from Simpson's Bay, stop at Phillipsburg, before crossing to Anse de Colombier, St Barths. Stay there a couple of days. The weather is good and so is the swimming and snorkeling - with lots of turtles around as usual. We visit Gustavia and the pretty little spot of Corossol - a little fishing village amidst the luxury of St barts.
After a couple of days at Barts, we head back to St Maarten and then on to Anguilla. The timing is just right - Sunday - and its brunch and jazz at Johnnos on the beach in Road Bay. Excellent music - the drummer, Fred York (?), is really good. Lots of fun.
Next day we head back to Simpson Bay again. Anchor outside, in Simpson Bay. Its busy, with lots of mega yachts also at anchor including Pelorus. She's big and very beautiful - but not big enough for billoinaire owner Abramovich - he now has a new yacht Eclipse - now the worlds largest private yacht.
We catch up with Antigua sailing/racing buddy Peter, who is still busy working on his yacht Severance at Bobbys Marina.   Severance  had a brush with the beach and reef at Simpson Bay.
We all head across for drinks at the Sunset Bar on Maho beach and then out for Bill's last supper. He is on an early morning flight back to the frozen north.
Kerry stays on in Simpson Bay 1 extra day, to help Peter out with some mast work. There's a decent weather window to make the jump across to Antigua, so Manx Mist heads out to Phillipsburg first, planning to have an early supper and then leave around midnight, thus making the night passage shorter and still arrive in Jolly harbour with daylight to spare.

The plan sort of works. The weather does not cooperate fully, and the wind and waves are on the nose, so its a long motor job, and the diesel gauge is dropping steadily. Its well in the red as we pull in to Antigua after 16hrs and drop anchor in Mosquito Cove, just outside Jolly harbour. And the engine dies just after the anchor is set.
Not the end of the story though.
The next day the wind picks up to over 25kts. Yachts are dragging thru the anchorage, and Manx Mist is slowly headed back to the shallows on the NW corner (bottom of the picture). This was not in the weather forecast. Theres no engine, with air in the diesel lines. Kerry has just time to dinghy in to the marina, pick up a mechanic to help bleed the fuel system, top up with a jerrycan of fuel, then pick up sailing buddy Derek Knowles to help move off anchor in the strong winds, and into the safety of the lagoon and a mooring ball. All too close.

A new year - 2010 - and back to St maarten

Christmas and New years is over, but winter isn't. Time to escape Canada again, and head back to the warmer climes of the Caribbean.
The excellent Westjet service whisks us through Toronto and into St Maarten, and in very little time we are back aboard "Manx Mist". Its less than a month since we left it on the dock. Everything is in good shape.

This will be the shortest sailing sequence that we've done, as we'll be headed back to Calgary, and then on to the Vancouver Olympics, in a couple of weeks.

Fortunately the weather is cooperating. We head out of the lagoon and anchor in the fresher waters outside, off Kim Sha beach. Next morning we're off to Anguilla. Road Bay is the main entry point for Anguilla. Its a lovely anchorage, usually well sheltered, although northerly swells can get in. It looks busy, with lots of local fishing boats and motor at anchor or on mooring balls - but its a big anchorage and theres plenty of space, and the holding is excellent. We just stay and hang-out for 4 days. Enjoy the beach. Take some dinghy trips along the coast.

Return to Simpson Bay to reprovision, and head off to circumnavigate St maarten.
First stop Phillipsburg - we're actually getting to enjoy the "big" town as a decent spot to overnight. It makes a change from the very relaxed and away-from-it feeling of Anguilla, and the beach is still good for walking and swimming.
 But its busy with those cruise ships in port.

We move on the next day, and around to Orient Bay, have lunch and a swim, and then move on again and around to Grand Case for market day. Always fun.
We decide to skip Marigot, and head on back to Simpson Bay.
Amongst the anchored boats we notice a few from Antigua, including Brian and Pippa on "Miramar". They are all over to race "Old Bob" in the St Maarten classic.
But thats it for Hil. Times up. Next day is the dinghy ride to the airport for her return flight to Canada.
Kerry has a few days left, so the next day its a short sail around to Phillipsburg to watch "Old Bob in action, and enjoy a few post race drinks.
Then back to simpson Bay, thru the bridge, into the lagoon, and back on the dock at Island Water World.
"Manx Mist" will have to wait there until March.
The Vancouver Olympics are imminent and theres a bobsledding daughter to watch.

December 2009, back to Sint Maarten

Timing for the overnight passage from BVI was good - as long as you're ok with 14 hrs of motoring. There's very little wind, but the sea is calm and its a starry sky.
We have sunrise over St maarten and arrive off Simpson Bay at 6am. Anchor off Kim Sha beach. Do the clearing-in stuff after breakfast. Then we reprovision. Worked out that its an easy walk up from the Port de Plaisance Marina to the Grande Marche store on the highway - so the best option to reprovision, if you don't have a vehicle, is to dinghy over there and then do the short hike.
A few more odd jobs to do, mixed in with some beaching and swimming, then we're ready to sail again.
Just a short hop around to Phillipsburg. The anchorage is back to normal, calm and sheltered - bit different than our abysmal last visit. More beaching and swimming, and some shopping - its a chance for Hil to add to her Pandora charm collection. Also a chance to do a good wifi catchup with the family.
Next day we return to Simpson Bay, enjoy some Lebanese food at Aldawyns. Then we clearout and move to the French side, clearing in to Marigot, before moving around to Grand Case.

Its the once-a-week market day in Grand Case, so the streets are busy with stalls at daytime and busy with music and revelers at night - its a fun spot.

We're enjoying some decent weather, so we head out and do some snorkeling off Creole Rock, before heading around to Tintamarre.
Its our first visit to the Park island of Tintamarre - another nice spot, lovely beach and some trails to walk along. Its only a short visit though. Our plan is to overnight in Orient Bay, so we cross over and check out the anchorage options - everywhere is a bit rolly - so plans change again.

We do a dinghy visit to the little island of Caye Verte, check that out, then back to the boat and a return to the more sheltered waters in Grand Case.


And time is running out on sailing in 2009.

We head back to Simpson Bay, clear in, move thru the bridge, into the lagoon, and on to the dock at Island Water World.
It's only a partial pack-the-boat-up, we're headed home to Calgary for Christmas and a dose of winter weather.

The Spanish Virgin Islands - Nov 2009

Sailing west from the sheltered and familiar anchorage of Sopers Hole, West End Tortola, BVI, we cruise past the coast of St Thomas and then its a short hop across to Culebra, the first of the 2 larger Spanish Virgin Islands.
The Spanish Virgin Islands (also called the Passage Islands) are part of Puerto Rico. Despite being so close to the very busy and commercialized St Thomas in the USVI, the Spanish islands feel undeveloped, unspoiled, and off-the beaten-path. They are a new destination for us, and we're looking forward to the visit.
With reasonable weather, no north edge to the wind and no swells, we take the northern side of St thomas. Theres a few small islands and some rocks and reefs to avoid, but the light is good, so no problems. In poorer weather conditions, the southern side of the island is the leeward side and more sheltered from the winds and waves.
As you approach Culebra, you have a choice of access routes - theres some extensive reef to avoid. The main entrance is around the SE side of the reef and through some very clear channel markers and into Ensenada Honda. But theres a shorter and more scenic route in, passing between Culebrita and Isla Norte. Good light helps and knowing exactly where you are is a really good plan - theres a lot of rocks and reefs to catch the napping sailor.

But we pass through easily and motor up inside Culebrita and tuck into the mangrove-lined lagoon behind Los Pelas for a comfortable first night stop. We discover that the PR/Culebra parks folks have nicely placed lots of mooring balls in the popular anchorage areas. This avoids damage to the reefs - which we later discover to still be in fine shape. It also makes things easy for us first-time visitors.
It was 6 hours from BVI to Culebra, all told.

After a good nights sleep in a very calm and protected anchorage, we're ready to  move on.
We pop back across to Culebrita and pick up a mooring ball there, dinghy into the beach, and go exploring. Its a nice spot, with some good trails, and we hike up to the old lighthouse for the views and the photo opps.

After lunch we head out, and work our way thru the well-marked channel into Ensenada Honda. We drop anchor in about 10' of water, tucked in behind Pirate Cay. We're just off the main town of Culebra, so we head ashore to complete clearance requirements.
Clearance into the SVI is relatively easy - a short walk up to the airport to complete the necessary paperwork with the Customs and Immigration folks there.
Then we wander around the small town. It's definitely on the quaint and undeveloped side, which is really nice after visiting many more commercial ports in the Caribbean. But there are downsides - tough to get wifi and internet anywhere - and we need to check in with home and the daughters. But we do find some stores to do a little reprovisioning and have a nice meal out at Mamacitas restaurant.
After a couple of days in Culebra, its time to move on again, and we head out, back thru Ensenada Honda and out and across to Vieques. Vieques looks really appealing - particularly the eastern end which used to be a US Naval gunnery range and has a couple of fine looking anchorages. We checked in Culebra and were advised that there were no military areas any more and no restrictions to worry about. My old Pilot book for the areas gives us excellent instruction on how to safely get into the anchorages, so first stop is Salina del Sur. Looks like our books were right and it is a lovely spot. A couple of other boats - cats - anchored there already, but they leave and we have the spot to ourselves for the night. Next day, when Kerry goes ashore, he meets 2 reps from the US ordinance and is told that the whole area is a Wildlife Refuge and entry is restricted. They actually give us a little map that shows the Wildlife Area. So, its return to the boat and up anchor and away.
Now we're a little confused and our plans are really messed up. we hoped to also anchor in Bahia Icacos on the islands north coast, but that is also Refuge. We could head west along the south coast, but its a longish distance downwind, and then a beat back. So, we decide instead to cross back to Culebra - it seems more accomodating to visiting sailors.
The weather is looking interesting though. Very heavy  and dark clouds over St Thomas, and its heading our way. At the half-way point its getting squally, and off the northern side of the squall line are a series of waterspouts, the first of which is looming closer. We've seen and dodged a few of these before, but never seen a line of 4 or 5. The sails are down and stowed, and we motor around the first spout and dash across ahead of the 2nd, as fast as a Yammar marine engine will allow. By the time we've motored up to Culebrita again, we're back into blue skies and sunshine.
Funny how days change. We end up with a lovely last stay at Culebrita. The water is beautifully clear, the reef is in great shape, and the fish life is still very good. Hil is little off-put by a near encounter with a shark, but it doesn't hang around. The anchorages here are quiet - we have one boat for company and thats it.



Now we head back to BVI, and then a longer head back to St Maarten.
After the passage back past St Thomas, we enter in to Sopers Hole to get a fuel topup, but theres a big wait so we move on and beat up the Sir Francis Drake Channel and into Marina Cay, where we do get fuel and stop for a sleep.

Another early start the next morning, but we can't pass one of our favourite spots without stopping briefly. Most tourists and bareboat cruisers who visit BVI make a daytime stop at the famous Baths on Virgin Gorda. They are beautiful - lovely little beaches and rock pools amidst a tumble of large boulders. But they are popular and always busy. Been there done that, lots of times.
Just next door, if you have a boat and the weather is right, is an idyllic mini version - Fallen Jerusalem - the name is enough to tempt you to check it out. It usually has 1 or 2 Marine Park balls for visitors to use. And then its own mini beaches and tumble of boulders - but you'll have this spot of paradise to yourself.

And having checked to make sure its still there, and still beautiful, we move on again.
We're planning to clear the east end of Virgin Gorda while its still earlish and the light is still ok. Then we'll make the crossing of the Anegada Passage as an overnight trip. The weather forecast is good, and we don't want to miss an opportunity for an easy passage back to St maarten.

Nov 2009 - back to the BVI

With nice weather and a calm sea forecast, we head out across the Anegada Passage, from Simpson Bay, bound for Tortola BVI.
 It's a trip I've done a few times, and now I like the routine of leaving around 3am and clearing into BVI early in the afternoon. The weather and seas cooperate and we have a smooth passage.
Its nice to be  back in the very familiar and sheltered waters of BVI. Its a busy place these days - full of yachts, and most of them bareboats charters. But if you know where to go, there are still a few quieter locations, away from the maddening crowd. And some of thise bareboat skippers are definitely maddening.

Our calm passage weather does not last, and we're treated to more windy, squally, wet stuff - and more south west winds bouncing us around in what should be sheltered anchorages. We take advantage of a break in the rain and hop across from Norman Island to Marina Cay. It's a sheltered spot in almost any conditions, so we hunker down for a couple of days.Its an opportunity to do some boatwork, and Kerry has solved the mystery of water entering the stern bilges. looks like theres some hairline cracks in the transom, and when the dinghy and engine are hoisted on the new davits, they allow water seepage. So its an uncomfortable and contortionist fibreglass job in the transom space. But it gets done and hopefully ends the water entry.
With an improvement in weather, we move on, take an early morning motor through Camanho passage and pick up a mooring ball off Monkey Point. This is a great location for snorkeling. We're the first there, and we get a special treat - two dolphins circling our boat. They stay for hours, continue their circling as other boats gradually come in and fill the location up. They don't seem bothered by anyone and we get the chance to snorkel in the water with them.


The weather continues to brighten so we leave the dolphin show and sail across to Diamond Cay and Foxy's taboo.


We have enough time for a walk to, and then a swim in, the bubbly pool.

The next day we move on again, breakfast stop at Green Cay and Sandy Spit before it gets too busy, and then continue on around Jost Van Dyke, sailing past Great Harbour and then motoring inside the reef across White Bay, to drop anchor just off the Soggy Dollar Bar. Too much beauty here - it's a busy spot but mainly around midday, and the evenings and mornings are quieter. Our stay here is also marked with some "entertainment" laid on by the bareboats. One catamaran coming adrift from a mooring ball, floating past us crewless (they were in the SDB having lunch) - Kerry pulls it off the reef with his dinghy. Another catamaran anchors too close in to shore, and ends up on the beach in the night when the wind shifts around. Manages to escape and re-anchor.

Next stop, back across to Tortola and Cane Garden Bay.


It's an excellent anchorage, but tough to find a spot to swing these days. Like most of BVI, the water is taken over by a pox of mooring balls. It's still a fine and classic caribbean beach, and a chance to sit in Rhymers and have a rum punch as the sun goes down.

And that completes the short return to and rounding of BVI. Not enough time to get out to Anegada this trip, and we plan to catch Virgin Gorda on the way back.

We make one last stop in Sopers Hole to clear out of BVI, and head west to new waters.